Ladakh
Ladakh Road Trip Guide: Passes, Permits and Fuel Stops
Ladakh is a permit-and-fuel logistics puzzle wrapped in the best driving on the subcontinent. Here is the planning layer that keeps it enjoyable.
Almost everything in Ladakh sits above 3,000m and the interesting parts sit above 4,000m. That single fact drives permits, fuel planning, daily distances and how you feel on day three.
Inner Line Permits
Indian nationals need an Inner Line Permit for Nubra, Pangong, Hanle, Tso Moriri, Turtuk and Chumathang, applied for online and validated in Leh. Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit through a registered agent. Carry at least six photocopies — every checkpost keeps one.
The passes
| Pass | Altitude | Connects | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Khardung La | 5,359 m | Leh – Nubra | Permit check at South Pullu; cross before afternoon wind |
| Chang La | 5,360 m | Leh – Pangong | Ice on the north face even in summer |
| Tanglang La | 5,328 m | Leh – Manali highway | Long approach, watch coolant temperatures |
| Shinku La | 5,090 m | Darcha – Zanskar | Water crossings on the Zanskar side; cross early |
| Umling La | 5,798 m | Hanle – Demchok | Highest motorable road; strictly permit-controlled |
Fuel discipline
- Reliable pumps: Leh, Karu, Kargil, Diskit, Nyoma, Keylong.
- Assume 250–300km between fills on plateau days and carry 20 litres spare.
- Fuel efficiency drops noticeably above 4,500m — plan on 20% worse than your usual figure.
Acclimatisation schedule that works
- 01Two nights in Leh (3,500m) before any pass above 5,000m.
- 02Nubra (3,100m) next — you sleep lower than Leh, which helps.
- 03Pangong (4,350m) after Nubra, not before.
- 04Hanle and Tso Moriri (4,500m+) last, once you are five days in.
In Ladakh, the itinerary is the safety equipment.
Season
Mid-May to early October. The Manali–Leh highway opens late May, the Srinagar–Leh road slightly earlier. September is the driest and clearest month, with cold nights already at −5°C on the plateaus.
If altitude is new to you, read the high altitude safety guide before you book flights into Leh.
Downloads
Frequently asked
- How do I get an Inner Line Permit for Ladakh?
- Indian nationals apply online through the Ladakh administration portal and validate the permit in Leh. Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit arranged through a registered travel agent.
- How many days should I spend in Ladakh?
- Nine to eleven days including two acclimatisation nights in Leh. Shorter trips force you to gain altitude too fast, which is where most problems start.
- Can I fly into Leh and drive the same day?
- You can, but you should not. Flying to 3,500m and driving over a 5,000m pass on the same day is the single most common cause of altitude illness in Ladakh.
- Is fuel available on the Hanle and Tso Moriri routes?
- There is fuel at Nyoma, but supply is intermittent. Carry a full 20-litre jerry can for any plateau loop east of Leh.
Ride with us
Cross the Trans Himalaya
Eleven days from Manali over Shinku La to Zanskar, Leh, Nubra, Pangong, Hanle and Tso Moriri.
See the Trans Himalayan ExpeditionWritten by
Hello Himalayas Expedition Desk
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Our route planners have run these roads every season since 2015, from Rohru into Spiti, Zanskar and eastern Ladakh. Everything here comes out of the logbook.